University of the Arts London (UAL).
Once upon a time I came to realise that I was at a crossroads. Normally no-one has a crossroads at this stage of their academic career/education. I studies in two years 'O'-level English Language, 'O'-level Chemistry, 'A'-levels in Pure Mathematics with Statistics, Human Biology and Art with Art History. My Art classes were cut short by the science classes as no-one is expected to mix sciences with arts. I took the Art 'A'-level after a year which I had not planned but the Art lecturers were adamant that I should. I was awarded a B which I was very surprised that it was so good a grade. Confidence in any ability was near rock bottom but persistence is a family value.
Thinking about applying to University seemed like an impossibility and it was delightful and amuzing to think that that was actually an option.
Biochemistry or Fine Art/Fashion and Textiles were the courses I wanted and were not qualified to do either. I knew little about Arts degrees but knew that St Martins was the place to go.
First round of applications conditional places my grades were insufficient.
Employment locally, Open University courses and a few years mulling it all over mixing with the best brains in the world for Chemistry, Biochemistry was the degree was applied for and awarded. To the snobs I would agree it is a poor man's version of medicine, which had been a childhood dream, but was completely crushed by school teachers who thought me worthless.
Oxford and a Biochemistry Doctorate I thought would be the golden key which it was not. Oxford to San Francisco and children and a resurrection in a career in Biochemistry Research. A recession and children in need of education is where I stayed until the last was 18, in February 2020.
The other childhood forged string to my bow was drawing which developed before writing as children do but apparently mine were of apparel, 'pretty dresses'.
Economics (a polite word for poverty) in later childhood when all are stepping into their identities was where I learned that restriction, limits are excellent stimulants for creating garments. Nothing was not taken apart and reconstructed. My Mother made the most beautiful, fitted garments from suits to ballet costumes with full tutus, to party dresses we could not afford - damask, lace, georgette.
Summer Balls are a beautiful way to end the academic year. Family were duly dressed in my gowns.
My own daughters have never wanted for a halloween costume, dresses for school, princess dresses and prom gowns. My own Wedding dress, bridesmaids dresses were inspired by the period of history I studied during 'A'-level, late eighteenth century, Royal Academy. (The teacher was reluctant at first. Many had opted for the special indepth project in ladies' attire. I pushed, she relinquished and I made a replica of a made to measure version of a gown from the Snowshill Collection, thank you Janet Arnold and Nancy Bradfield! books that were in the college library I would spend breaks from science pouring over.)
Ten years ago the Academy of Art University in San Francisco advertised an Open Day where potential applicants could come with their portfolios. I desperately wanted to go but did not have a portfolio.
Gabrielle Elizabeth
Twelve years ago as my youngest started school my calculation was that as husband works term time I could utilise the rest of the time to work on getting a business in dress design up and running. The internet was growing fast and without an actual atelier or studio or shop how could people learn about my business, answer a website. Required - photographs, web hosting and someone who knew what how to work a website. Photographs by a professional was traded for costume design and manufacture.
I had had a ball gown shop in the back of my mind and sourcing fabric for my Wedding gown was the first step. But finding a name was difficult
When my daughter was born and in the States you cannot leave the hospital without naming the child. My first iteration of a business was also born, her name. Gabrielle Elizabeth.
I knew nothing about the business, and very little about pattern cutting apart from all that I had learned with proprietary retail patterns and 'A'-level project. It was daunting.
Lessons learned
Reading people
One person asked me to make something for her daughter's Wedding. I struggled finding a price to charge but came to the conclusion based on the costs to me and paying myself a small amount for labour and what I believed I would expect to pay for a similar garment. (It was a lot less than I would charge now.) I misread the situation and she was appalled at the proposed cost. I think she thought that I would be a cheaper version of off the peg.
Finding out about the Bridal business
A Saturday job in a bridal salon a lot was learned about the business. Wholesale, retail, costs, 50% non-refundable deposit is an industry standard. Costs with profit must be 2-2.2 times the wholesale cost. So when a brides says yes to the dress there is no risk because costs to the shop and a little bit of profit are covered. The rest is pure profit. Types of inexpensive fabric, samples are tried, the market for wholesalers to sell their products to retailers. I wanted to go.
First fabric show
Dreams of fabric had included standing at the top of an escalator of an enormous building with huge glass windows. Descending down to the floor with the exhibitions of fabrics filled me with excitement and I dreamed of colours, feels, flows.
A trip to New York and this dream was really a premonition.
I dressed in my best to fake being a designer. Two 'Assistants', business cards, and a routine, I learned about fabrics, minimum yardages?, deliveries, I am a Private Label, labels, it was successful and fun. I managed to open doors that I thought would be closed to me.
Meeting an actual couturier
Before the Internet the yellow pages, phone calls I met a Scottish lady in San Francisco. I was looking to see if I could apprentice somewhere that made gowns. She answered and we met. She taught me that marketing is best done by self, industrial sewing machines are fast and scary, and that there is a huge amount for me to learn.
She charged money for the sketches of the designs! and it was a lot of money which she said was a great way to show that they were serious and will be able to pay the amount of money she charged. She charged a lot. She had a few clients for whom she designed their entire wardrobe, their own personal collections.
She showed me beading for a strap for a t-shirt and that she had dyed the fabric to match. I commented on how home dyes like that don't last because they wash out. She stopped and looked at me. I suddenly released that washing clothes was not something her clients did!
Bridal fitting
A friend had left it all to the last minute finding a Wedding dress and asked me to help. Bridal shops were variously helpful. She had no idea what looked right. That was something I could do. I pulled straps to the right place, lifted bodices, pulled in waists, tightened fits, lifted sleeves and generally found the gown. To me it was simple, easy and I noticed how she responded to changes.
The actual dress was hemmed by ruching and a flowers stitched in, sleeves lifted and a matching head band made.
Get it in writing
A Wedding dress. I had learned to make a muslin first, get that fitting and the design right before cutting into the actual fabric. I also learned that buying in bulk reduces the price per yard, buying an entire bolt was even better. I went to the one of the best in the world and contacted them. They had a cut into bolt and helped me with the price. Sourcing for all else. They agreed to all and gave me what I had clearly said from my experience with the bridal salons that X was the cost and that they were giving me 50% deposit. I sold it on 1)the cost and 2) that it was great experience for me starting out. Big mistake was that nothing was written down, agreed, dated and signed.
Designing the gown was easy, making the muslim and fitting it was fairly straight forward. Crepe backed satin to flow as she was young and moved a lot, she jumped frequently and danced and she wanted movement not stiff. She wanted ball gown and huge skirt as they were getting married in a castle in France. She wanted glitter and so it had graduating sized Swarovski crystals dotted all over. Fitted bodice, elongating her small frame, accentuating her waist, sleeveless for movement, silver hand embroidery on the bodice front.
Making it in the finished fabric, securing the bodice, embroidery and the garment was complete. She squealed with excitement. When I presented the bill this time in writing showing that the amount they had paid was the 50% deposit as we had verbally agreed, they did just what I am sure you are sharply intaking of breath about was that they were surprised and had not remembered the agreement.
It was my mistake and how do I make this right? I let it go. I did say that we had verbally agreed and they remembered part 2) that the experience would be great for me! I also said that it had been my fault for not getting it in writing, apologised. They had said they would send photographs but they did not. They were clearly unhappy. Indirect reports were that they loved the dress. Lesson learned - get it in writing.
Bridal Salon number 1
I worked Saturdays and Thursday evenings at a local bridal salon. 90 minute consultations, various brides with various budgets all under $3000. There were hundreds of sample gowns, jewelry, bridesmaids, mother of bride, prom gowns, owners own line, shoes, undergarments, veils. It was hard work, heavy lifting, brides trying on for Saturday afternoon fun, brides with different temperaments, brides with no time and needed to walk away with a sample. I was scheduled with anyone who seemed difficult. My average sale $750, the next was $30. People sent me flowers, chocolates and letters of gratitude.
After a few months I asked a well heeled consultant if she could tell which dress is right from the second the bride walks in the door and she agreed.
Bridal Salon number 2
After a year at Bridal Salon number 1 I moved on to Bridal Salon number 2 in the heart of San Francisco.
Once upon a time I came to realise that I was at a crossroads. Normally no-one has a crossroads at this stage of their academic career/education. I studies in two years 'O'-level English Language, 'O'-level Chemistry, 'A'-levels in Pure Mathematics with Statistics, Human Biology and Art with Art History. My Art classes were cut short by the science classes as no-one is expected to mix sciences with arts. I took the Art 'A'-level after a year which I had not planned but the Art lecturers were adamant that I should. I was awarded a B which I was very surprised that it was so good a grade. Confidence in any ability was near rock bottom but persistence is a family value.
Thinking about applying to University seemed like an impossibility and it was delightful and amuzing to think that that was actually an option.
Biochemistry or Fine Art/Fashion and Textiles were the courses I wanted and were not qualified to do either. I knew little about Arts degrees but knew that St Martins was the place to go.
First round of applications conditional places my grades were insufficient.
Employment locally, Open University courses and a few years mulling it all over mixing with the best brains in the world for Chemistry, Biochemistry was the degree was applied for and awarded. To the snobs I would agree it is a poor man's version of medicine, which had been a childhood dream, but was completely crushed by school teachers who thought me worthless.
Oxford and a Biochemistry Doctorate I thought would be the golden key which it was not. Oxford to San Francisco and children and a resurrection in a career in Biochemistry Research. A recession and children in need of education is where I stayed until the last was 18, in February 2020.
The other childhood forged string to my bow was drawing which developed before writing as children do but apparently mine were of apparel, 'pretty dresses'.
Economics (a polite word for poverty) in later childhood when all are stepping into their identities was where I learned that restriction, limits are excellent stimulants for creating garments. Nothing was not taken apart and reconstructed. My Mother made the most beautiful, fitted garments from suits to ballet costumes with full tutus, to party dresses we could not afford - damask, lace, georgette.
Summer Balls are a beautiful way to end the academic year. Family were duly dressed in my gowns.
My own daughters have never wanted for a halloween costume, dresses for school, princess dresses and prom gowns. My own Wedding dress, bridesmaids dresses were inspired by the period of history I studied during 'A'-level, late eighteenth century, Royal Academy. (The teacher was reluctant at first. Many had opted for the special indepth project in ladies' attire. I pushed, she relinquished and I made a replica of a made to measure version of a gown from the Snowshill Collection, thank you Janet Arnold and Nancy Bradfield! books that were in the college library I would spend breaks from science pouring over.)
Ten years ago the Academy of Art University in San Francisco advertised an Open Day where potential applicants could come with their portfolios. I desperately wanted to go but did not have a portfolio.
Gabrielle Elizabeth
Twelve years ago as my youngest started school my calculation was that as husband works term time I could utilise the rest of the time to work on getting a business in dress design up and running. The internet was growing fast and without an actual atelier or studio or shop how could people learn about my business, answer a website. Required - photographs, web hosting and someone who knew what how to work a website. Photographs by a professional was traded for costume design and manufacture.
I had had a ball gown shop in the back of my mind and sourcing fabric for my Wedding gown was the first step. But finding a name was difficult
When my daughter was born and in the States you cannot leave the hospital without naming the child. My first iteration of a business was also born, her name. Gabrielle Elizabeth.
I knew nothing about the business, and very little about pattern cutting apart from all that I had learned with proprietary retail patterns and 'A'-level project. It was daunting.
Lessons learned
Reading people
One person asked me to make something for her daughter's Wedding. I struggled finding a price to charge but came to the conclusion based on the costs to me and paying myself a small amount for labour and what I believed I would expect to pay for a similar garment. (It was a lot less than I would charge now.) I misread the situation and she was appalled at the proposed cost. I think she thought that I would be a cheaper version of off the peg.
Finding out about the Bridal business
A Saturday job in a bridal salon a lot was learned about the business. Wholesale, retail, costs, 50% non-refundable deposit is an industry standard. Costs with profit must be 2-2.2 times the wholesale cost. So when a brides says yes to the dress there is no risk because costs to the shop and a little bit of profit are covered. The rest is pure profit. Types of inexpensive fabric, samples are tried, the market for wholesalers to sell their products to retailers. I wanted to go.
First fabric show
Dreams of fabric had included standing at the top of an escalator of an enormous building with huge glass windows. Descending down to the floor with the exhibitions of fabrics filled me with excitement and I dreamed of colours, feels, flows.
A trip to New York and this dream was really a premonition.
I dressed in my best to fake being a designer. Two 'Assistants', business cards, and a routine, I learned about fabrics, minimum yardages?, deliveries, I am a Private Label, labels, it was successful and fun. I managed to open doors that I thought would be closed to me.
Meeting an actual couturier
Before the Internet the yellow pages, phone calls I met a Scottish lady in San Francisco. I was looking to see if I could apprentice somewhere that made gowns. She answered and we met. She taught me that marketing is best done by self, industrial sewing machines are fast and scary, and that there is a huge amount for me to learn.
She charged money for the sketches of the designs! and it was a lot of money which she said was a great way to show that they were serious and will be able to pay the amount of money she charged. She charged a lot. She had a few clients for whom she designed their entire wardrobe, their own personal collections.
She showed me beading for a strap for a t-shirt and that she had dyed the fabric to match. I commented on how home dyes like that don't last because they wash out. She stopped and looked at me. I suddenly released that washing clothes was not something her clients did!
Bridal fitting
A friend had left it all to the last minute finding a Wedding dress and asked me to help. Bridal shops were variously helpful. She had no idea what looked right. That was something I could do. I pulled straps to the right place, lifted bodices, pulled in waists, tightened fits, lifted sleeves and generally found the gown. To me it was simple, easy and I noticed how she responded to changes.
The actual dress was hemmed by ruching and a flowers stitched in, sleeves lifted and a matching head band made.
Get it in writing
A Wedding dress. I had learned to make a muslin first, get that fitting and the design right before cutting into the actual fabric. I also learned that buying in bulk reduces the price per yard, buying an entire bolt was even better. I went to the one of the best in the world and contacted them. They had a cut into bolt and helped me with the price. Sourcing for all else. They agreed to all and gave me what I had clearly said from my experience with the bridal salons that X was the cost and that they were giving me 50% deposit. I sold it on 1)the cost and 2) that it was great experience for me starting out. Big mistake was that nothing was written down, agreed, dated and signed.
Designing the gown was easy, making the muslim and fitting it was fairly straight forward. Crepe backed satin to flow as she was young and moved a lot, she jumped frequently and danced and she wanted movement not stiff. She wanted ball gown and huge skirt as they were getting married in a castle in France. She wanted glitter and so it had graduating sized Swarovski crystals dotted all over. Fitted bodice, elongating her small frame, accentuating her waist, sleeveless for movement, silver hand embroidery on the bodice front.
Making it in the finished fabric, securing the bodice, embroidery and the garment was complete. She squealed with excitement. When I presented the bill this time in writing showing that the amount they had paid was the 50% deposit as we had verbally agreed, they did just what I am sure you are sharply intaking of breath about was that they were surprised and had not remembered the agreement.
It was my mistake and how do I make this right? I let it go. I did say that we had verbally agreed and they remembered part 2) that the experience would be great for me! I also said that it had been my fault for not getting it in writing, apologised. They had said they would send photographs but they did not. They were clearly unhappy. Indirect reports were that they loved the dress. Lesson learned - get it in writing.
Bridal Salon number 1
I worked Saturdays and Thursday evenings at a local bridal salon. 90 minute consultations, various brides with various budgets all under $3000. There were hundreds of sample gowns, jewelry, bridesmaids, mother of bride, prom gowns, owners own line, shoes, undergarments, veils. It was hard work, heavy lifting, brides trying on for Saturday afternoon fun, brides with different temperaments, brides with no time and needed to walk away with a sample. I was scheduled with anyone who seemed difficult. My average sale $750, the next was $30. People sent me flowers, chocolates and letters of gratitude.
After a few months I asked a well heeled consultant if she could tell which dress is right from the second the bride walks in the door and she agreed.
Bridal Salon number 2
After a year at Bridal Salon number 1 I moved on to Bridal Salon number 2 in the heart of San Francisco.
